The next level for anyone planing in the footstraps — how to find speed, tune your gear properly, stop spinning out, and carve a fully planing power jibe. My full freeride masterclass.
Anyone who can plane in the footstraps wants to keep developing as fast as possible: full speed, jibing, carving. Top speed, planing and control are always an interaction between the rider and the right material set-up — so the first job is matching your gear to your goal, then fine-tuning the technique.
Go deeper on the key moves: the power jibe, avoiding spinouts, sail-trimming mistakes and choosing your fin size.
(Originally written with SURF Magazin, photos by Oliver Maier.)
Match your gear to your goal
Top speed, planing and control are always an interaction between the rider and the right material set-up — so the first job is matching your board and sail to what you actually want to do.
Relaxed planing & jibing
A freeride board (like a JP Magic Ride) with a no-cam sail (like a NeilPryde Ryde) is far better than advanced slalom kit if you want to plane relaxed and nail the power jibe.
Chasing speed
A sporty 2-cam engine like a NeilPryde V8 needs a matching fast freerace or slalom board, so the extra horsepower doesn't disappear.
Speed
Whatever your gear, the right technique squeezes out extra speed — and there isn't one correct posture, because it depends on your course.
Reach & downwind
Lean the upper body back, front leg almost straight, back leg slightly bent — this is where you're fastest.
Upwind
The opposite: bring the upper body forward, bend the front leg, and look to leeward, past the mast.
Strap size
If your toes are just visible on the inside of the straps, you've got a good mix of control and easy slip-in. Learners can go a little larger; ambitious racers a little tighter for firm contact on speed runs.
Find the sweet spot
Two classic problems. The board sticks — the nose sits too low and the windward edge digs into the chop, so give it more lift and a freer planing position. Or it wheelies — rearing up in the gusts; that's usually a gear set-up out of balance, not simply too much sail.
Trim
Sail and board trim have a big influence on how the board sits on the water.
Downhaul
When the nose won't release going downwind, add downhaul — the looser leech makes the sail feel less top-heavy. Don't overdo it, or the sail turns unstable.
Boom height & harness lines
Boom up and lines short makes the board looser (good in light wind); on wide boards set the boom higher. In strong wind and chop, boom lower and lines longer. I run adjustable lines at 28–34" so I can ride low, away from the sail, for control.
Mast foot
Middle is the standard. Back 1–2 cm for more lift and a looser ride; forward by the same amount in lots of wind to keep the nose down. Avoid either extreme.
Tuning
Once the basics are dialled, these are the levers that fine-tune control and speed for the day's conditions.
Strap position
Mounted further out gives leverage, control and speed — if you can get in and out safely. I mount my back straps all the way back for a really free ride.
Fin size
A bigger fin gives more lift in light wind and lifts the windward rail; a smaller fin gives a more secure connection to the water in strong wind.
Outhaul / clew
The upper clew closes the leech for a better light-wind low end; the lower clew lets the leech twist for more control and high-end performance.
Racer's boost
Tension the lower-leech tack strap in light wind for depth and an extra boost below the boom; loosen it when it's windy so the sail can open.
Avoid spinouts
A spinout — the tail sliding out as the fin loses grip — is about as loved as a day without wind. The majority can be avoided with the right measures.
Keep the mast foot in the middle
Many sailors fight spinouts by shoving the mast base fully forward. It takes pressure off the fin, but it wrecks the board's trim and control — the middle position stays the clear recommendation.
Bring the straps inside
Straps far on the outside create a lot of lateral pressure on the fin. If you spin out while fully planing, a slightly inside position is more comfortable — and often faster on average.
Build speed before heading up
The flow at the fin needs solid speed. Don't head upwind the instant you get planing; accelerate first, then slowly point up.
Watch the sail's pressure point
Bigger sails push the power point back and load the fin. If the backhand loads up in the gusts, add a centimetre of downhaul and tighten the outhaul.
The power jibe
The holy grail: a sleek, fully planing power jibe. Unlike a basic jibe you initiate it by steering with your feet — but there are many parallels, especially at the end.
Speed & set-up
Sufficient speed is the requirement. Bear away, close the sail and accelerate, then unhook, slide the back foot out of the strap and onto the leeward rail.
Carve
Let the sail pull you into the turn: wide grip, stretch the front arm, close the sail with the back hand. Push your knees forward so the whole rail digs in.
Change feet
When the pressure releases you're at the apex — open the sail and switch feet after you pass dead downwind: front foot out and back, heel to heel, the new foot between pads and mast foot.
Shift the sail
Shift the rig boom-to-boom, crossing your arms to the new side. Keep the sail upright and close to your body so it flips cleanly. If you stop planing, just finish it like a basic jibe with the sail.
The race jibe
The carving (race) jibe is the crown jewel. You lay the sail down more so a fast board grips through the turn instead of bouncing over the chop at 50 km/h. Build it up from the power jibe, step by step.
Dragster arms
You carve with your arms as much as your legs. Don't step off the gas: back hand a few cm back, close the sail fully so it drags you to the inside of the turn — the forward-leaned body position then happens almost by itself.
Curl up
Don't stay stiff and stretched — let the sail pull you in and bend the hip forward into the turn.
Use your toes
Your legs aren't straight: push the knees forward to load the toe pads and the leeward rail, which is what gives the grip.
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